Mira and Shimrit

At the journal Mira is Lotahn's counterpart. That is, she is the PR go-to woman on the Palestinian side. Mira is gorgeous. She's as tall as me, slender, with straight thick almost black hair that hangs more than mid-way down her back. Her creamy brown complexion is flawless and her deep brown eyes are an incredible sight. Mira knows how to use her eye make-up to highlight these brown eyes of hers.

Last Wednesday Mira wore a sherbet-lime sweatshirt and the most perfectly matched eyeshadow, with turquoise eyeliner underneath. I can't forget this because this was the day I accompanied Mira to West Jerusalem to the Bookfair. Although I was not scheduled for a shift that day, I had to go with her because she'd never been to West Jerusalem. Taking a moment to register this information, I stared at Mira for more than a few seconds wondering how this could be.

From where I live in East Jerusalem, it is a 20 minute walk, at most, to the happening downtown area of West Jerusalem where Ben Yehuda meets Jaffa Street. Mira has lived here all the 24 years of her life and this commute that I made each day last week, she'd never had reason to do.

Mira is a Palestinian Christian. Recently, she began a fast until Easter that prohibits her eating much else but vegetables. Another stipulation of this Easter fast is that you are not to have sexual relations over the duration of the fast. However, as Mira is married, the fast rules over 60 days time do not apply to her. She says the abstaining from relations with one's husband is an unreasonable aspect of the fast and so tradition has it that a married woman need oberve the fast for one week in the beginning and one week in the end. For the rest of the year on Wednesdays and Fridays, Mira observes the rules of the fast, to fulfill the full obligation of fast days.

Mira lives in the West Bank. Each day she crosses a check point to get to work. Mira drives with her husband, Samer, each morning. He sells cosmetics in East Jerusalem and three other cities in the area, depending on what day of the week it is.

Mira and her husband were married last year after a rather turbulent courtship. The couple was introduced by mutual friends. Realizing they liked each other, Mira and Samer began to date. They had to keep their affection undercover however because Mira is a Christian and her husband is a Muslim.

In the Islamic tradition, a Muslim man may marry a non-Muslim wife. However, the children must be raised Muslim, after the father. The woman may elect to retain her religious tradition, or convert to Islam.

A Muslim woman may marry a Jew or a Christian, as these are people of the Book. However, the non-Muslim man that the Muslim woman marries must convert to Islam. The conversion must be voluntary and not merely an appeasment but rather, a sincere acceptance of Islam as the true religion. This is because the children take after the father's faith.

When Mira's family discovered her relationship with Samer, they objected. Mira and Samer broke up and pursued other relationships, sort of. Mira went through a period of deep depression. She tried to commit suicide. After which, her parents sent her to Amman to be with family, away from Samer and her memories. While in Amman, a cousin of Mira expressed interest and eventually proposed marriage to Mira. She accepted, but she says from a very numb place. Mira was just going through the motions. She returned to her home in the West Bank, and after awhile, the engagement was broken.

Meanwhile, Samer pursued another woman. He proposed to her and she accepted. But, days before the wedding, Samer called it off. Samer still loved Mira and Mira still loved Samer. All along they had been text messaging and calling one another, in spite of Mira's family's wishes that she not be in contact with Samer.

Mira and Samer began to date again. They decided they'd rather be together than apart. Mira's parents refused to talk to her for months. Eventually, they accepted her decision. Mira says the situation improved when her parents finally agreed to meet Samer's family. The families like each other and they get along. Life has become easier.

Mira told me a story about last Valentine's Day. She and Samer went to enjoy a romantic dinner at a restaurant near to where they live but opposite a check point. Upon returning home through the checkpoint, the soldiers made Mira get out of the car and walk through security while her husband drove. She had to also take off her boots and walk barefoot.

Lotahn, Mira and I walked to the bus station about ten minutes from the office. We waited for the number 6 bus that ends up at the Jerusalem New Central Bus Station across from the Congress Center, where the book fair was held. It was a beautiful day with sunshine and a pleasant breeze. I started asking Mira lots of questions about herself and her life, Lotahn whispered to me, "I'm glad you came with us."G

We arrived in West Jerusalem among the throngs of people walking about outside the Central Bus Station. Lotahn showed us an underground tunnel that cuts under and across the street to the Congress Cetner, saves time and increases safety avoiding crosswalks.

Going through security at the Congress Center, I heard Mira say to Lotahn, "this is what you mean that there is security at every door."

At our booth, which we shared with another organization called Windows for Peace, an Arabic and Hebrew language children's magazine, sat Shimrit. Shimrit is Israeli, from Tel Aviv, around 28 years old. She was happy to make the commute each day from Tel Aviv for the bookfair, as it got her out of the office. Moreover, it gave her the opportunity to take flute lessons from a Jerusalemite that specializes in the Arabic flute that Shimrit is learning to play.

Shimrit also refused service in the army, I found out. Basically, she got a doctor's note, a psychological evaluation excusing her from service. Shimrit feels the age at which the army comes in a young person's life is exactly when they need to discover who they are themselves. To be absorbed in a regimented system of rules and orders curtails that process of self-discovery. She said something like, "just when you are blossoming you are expected to submit to this system..."

Shimrit is short and petite, shoulder-length thick, black curly hair, and large features. I wonder if her family came to Israel from North Africa, or one of the Arab countries of the Middle East.

Shimrit and Mira and I discussed why it is that East and West Jerusalem are worlds apart to Israelis and Palestinians, respectively. And also, what are some of the obstacles to peace in this region.

Shimrit and Mira agreed that on the question of Jerusalem, there's nothing that they need to do, nor people they know who live on the other side. What's the point of going?

Mira says everything she needs can be found in East Jerusalem, she doesn't need to shop in West Jerusalem, which would be a reason for going there.

I asked Shimrit about the fear factor. That so many Israelis think --East Jerusalem-- shake their head and say "no way".

She agreed it's important to face those fears. But when we got into the political discussion, when Mira described her understanding of the situation, I understood Shimrit's body language as skeptical and alert. Her eyebrows furrowed and she became quiet and then distracted as Mira and I continued the conversation.

Specifically, I mentioned that each day I walk to the office, I take the long route, about 10-15 minutes walk around Salah-a-din. I like to see which shops open on time, later, earlier. What the Israeli police people are doing next to the post office. How many Israeli police officers are stationed at the gate entrance into the Old City, are there any barricades, etc...

I asked Shimrit and Mira what the effect of such security and random checks has on Palestinians, if it's acceptable, if security is a good enough rationalization for the both of them.

Mira understood the security issue, the threat of suicide bombers. But I think it's difficult to reconcile with her own frustrating experience with check points as she means no one harm. The harrassment factor therefore is rather prominent for her. But she seems to point the finger of blame at the Israeli government and its policies, the Israeli people aren't doing this to her.

Interestingly, Shimrit holds the people culpable for continued violence and chasm it makes between the Israelis and Palestinians. She feels Israelis should have experiences that challenge their pre-conceived notions of Palestinians, and Palestinians should do the same for Israelis.

I don't think Shimrit has visited East Jerusalem.

Honestly, I was frustrated with this interaction. I would think that these two young women, in the line of work that they're in, representing publications for peace and coexistence, they'd be more curious about each other and their life experiences. But, as Shimrit shared with me, she's not a part of Windows for Peace because she believes it's an answer to the conflict, or because she's a peace activist, but rather, it's a good job. Also, the organzation does good work, at the very least it doesn't exacerbate the situation.

As an Israeli, Shimrit has the option of turning awareness of injustice off and on. She can choose to engage with Mira and learn more and be touched by her experience, or she can simply do the task assigned to her and continue on. I don't begrudge this privilege that Shimrit possesses. I just want it for Mira, too.

Lotahn and Mira left me and Shimrit in order to do some potential publisher/distributor public relations work. I asked Lotahn if Mira and I could leave early in order to go to Mahane Yehuda and be back by three p.m. when Samer picks up Mira. He agreed that would be a nice idea.

It felt incredibly strange to show Mira around West Jerusalem. Me, a foreigner, visiting for a short time, directing her on the streets, explaining the layout, navigating the bus lines. Mira bought men's socks and undershirts for Samer. 10 NIS for three shirts. The socks per pair were a little more costly.

At one point Mira asked again the name of the market. When I told her she said, "you know Heidi, there are many explosions here."

I try not to think about such facts while shopping for chocolate rugelach and halvah.

Mira, I could sense, was a little nervous about time. And she admitted that her husband does not like for her to take buses. Fortunately, we made it back to East Jerusalem and the office in time.