Awad is the roommate of my Arabic teacher from UCLA, Hassan. Back in December, Hassan invited our small class over to his and Awad's apartment for traditional, homemade Arabic food, Hassan being Iraqi, Awad being Palestinian. Perhaps it was the Araq (Arabic anise liquor akin to Sambuca), copious amounts of kebab, lebne (soft cheese with olive oil plate) and piles of grilled peppers, onions and zucchini, that fogged my memory to think that Awad told me of a professor-relative at Birzeit University who he wanted me to visit during my time in the Middle East. So when I e-mailed him last week to follow up on this offer, he informed that this was not true but in fact, a professor from Birzeit came to UCLA the week before. He got her e-mail and suggested I contact her.
Within a day, Professor Sonia Nimr of Birzeit University, Department of History, told me to give her a call to arrange an appointment. We set the time at 11 a.m. in her office on the second floor of the Higher Education Building.
Tuesday morning I found myself waiting to be fetched by the daugthers of a friend of Ziad's (Palestinian editor of the PIJ). At 8:04 am, Nafouz, Lana, and Nafouz's son Karim picked me up in front of my hotel and we headed north from Jerusalem to Birzeit. Nafouz was visiting from D.C. where she lives with her husband, a photojournalist for CNN, and her 3 year old, Karim. I asked her what she did in D.C. to which she replied, "Nothing, it's impossible to do any work with a kid."
About 15 minutes into our drive I noticed a high, concrete wall to my right that reminded me of the U.S.-Mexico border.
"I see that this is a wall, but is this THE wall?" I asked.
"Yes it is the wall, we are on the Israel side now, on the other side is Palestine," replied Nafouz.
Lana, a student of finance, remained quiet for most of our trip through Jerusalem past the Qalandya checkpoint, and onto the road leading to Ramallah and Birzeit.
Getting into the West Bank on a normal day isn't a problem. We drove by the Qalandya Checkpoint and entered the road to Ramallah -- on the other side of the wall.
The road is a mess--- uneven and eroded. At parts there are enormous speed bumps that barely slow down the taxis, trucks and cars racing along the road.
"Do you see this road? It's terrible for the cars," Nafouz said.
I asked whose responsibility it is to fix it. Nafouz mumbled something about it still being Israel's land and so the Palestinians aren't going to fund it and since Israelis no longer use it, Israel won't repair it.
On either side of the road there are several half-completed projects. Half-built buildings with Palestinian flags tied to metal posts sticking out of concrete columns, abandoned foundations, a smattering of car repair shops, furniture stores and the occasional fruit and vegetable market. Through my head, the thought kept running how the earth here looks the same as the outer parts of Jerusalem, the landscape hasn't changed, the gray rocks with dirt and green sandwiched between -- yet this is practically another country. Its people speak another language and in fact, there was only Arabic on billboards and signs, no Hebrew.
I recognized Birzeit from the photo on the website. The university sits upon a hill with buildings made of Jerusalem stone, sandy-white bleached. We drove toward the West Gate where Nafouz dropped us off.
Lana asked me which building I needed to go to so she could show the way. I could only remember History and Archaelogy and not the Higher Education part, which I realized nearly two hours later was crucial to locating the building. Lana thought the building was behind the finance building and pointed left from where we were standing.
Around us were several students visiting with each other before classes. Young men and women with notebooks and cigarettes, sitting, standing, chatting on benches and low stone walls. I had about two hours to kill before my appointment so I asked Lana to show me to the cafeteria so I could have a cup of coffee.
With 8 minutes to spare before her class, Lana showed me to the cafeteria, bade me farewell and I was on my own.
The night before my cell phone mysteriously stopped working. I could no longer make outgoing calls. When I tried, a very lovely, deep Hebrew-speaking woman's voice relayed a message to me which I could not understand. With my cup of coffee, I sat down amidst the students having breakfast to look over my paperwork.
I couldn't use my phone to call the cell phone help line, which was compounded by the fact that in the West Bank, Cellcom, my phone company doesn't have great reception. I needed to find some internet access to e-mail the company and also notify the office that I had made it to Birzeit, and that I hoped to be back in the afternoon for the second office shift. Somehow, perhaps student's intuition, I located a computer lab where the student attendant kindly offered me her account in order to sign into the network. I began the e-mails to the phone company and the office. Then, I purchased a phone card. I thought perhaps I could use a pay phone to call the phone company. This failed because after I dialed the number and was connected, I could no longer push any buttons on the keypad on the pay phone. This was necessary in order to navigate the automated answering service of the phone company. I took the opportunity to call the office, however, spoke to Najat who said she'd call me every half hour or so to make sure I was doing ok.
At this point, nearly an hour and a half had passed and I realized I still didn't know where I needed to be at eleven. Everyone I asked to point me to the history building was happy to help but no one had the right answer. I was directed to the media building, passed the law school, toward the library and then the campus museum. The woman working in the museum office knew the Higher Education part of the History and Archaelogy building title, told me the name in Arabic, which I have already forgotten, and I was on my way. I figured I could use the professor's phone to try to get through to the phone company.
I climbed one flight of stairs, turned right and arrived at a red door with a plaque that stated, "Professor Sonia Nimr, Lecturer." I knocked, turned the knob and found myself in a square office with high ceilings, white walls, few posters, three desks and computers, and a sitting area with a couch and two chairs facing each other, a coffee table between them. Sonia was sitting in a chair across from a blond young man, clearly a foreigner, looking over papers and discussing. Sonia rose from her chair, Gauloise cigarette between her fingers.
Sonia is about my height, thin, busty, with mid-shoulder length, red-orange, straight hair, deep wrinkles and a noticeable twitch in her eyes. In her thick accent she welcomed me and asked me to sit down, did I want some coffee?
Declining the coffee I explained the phone situation and she put me at her desk to call the phone company. The first person I talked to informed me that I had made "suspicious calls" and so my phone had been shut. To which I said, "suspicious calls? to who, how? but I need my phone!"
He gave me a number and people to talk to, which only rang and rang and rang. So much for that. I felt awful asking Sonia to let me keep making calls because each time she had to get up from her meeting, dial in a code and then let me use a phone. The young man working with her, Philipp, a German student writing his thesis on the role of Hamas in Palestinian politics, offered me his SIM card and told me I had to go outside and walk around a bit to find Cellcom reception.
Once again I called the phone company, this time I was transferred to an English speaking operator who suggested I turn the phone off then on again. I asked why this happened and she said, "You know, it's electronics, this happens sometimes, it's just a machine."
Ok.
The trick worked. My phone picked up the SIM card signal, or however the hell it works, and I made a few phone calls to the office and a friend to inform them of my whereabouts. Heading back into the building, I felt much better about being back in communication and prepared myself to interview Sonia Nimr.
Sitting across from Sonia, I pulled out my legal pad and pen, and flipped to the page with the questions I wanted to ask to get the conversation moving. First though, she needed to know a little about me, fine.
I told her a few things. I have been here for a month and I am an intern at the Palestine-Israel Journal. That I wanted to come talk to people here about the conflict because I was tired of hearing how it is and not being able to see it so that I may have an opinion of my own, from my own experience. I told her I'm a teacher at a religious school, I am a Jew who believes it is important, no, crucial that the Jews have a state because throughout history people have tried to wipe them off the face of the earth. However, it is important for me to first understand and then educate people about what is happening here. And hopefully, do so in a way that people can listen without being defensive, disbelieving and dismissive. That we cannot deny that Israelis, Jewish or otherwise, Jews from the Diaspora and Palestinians live here and no one is really going anywhere.
With that, she allowed me to begin.
What is your job here? What are you a professor of?
I teach history here. I am also starting an Oral History Center. Who is writing Palestinian history? We are under occupation and others are writing our history. So we need to start writing our own history and teach it to ourselves.
Who is stopping Palestinians from writing their history?
No one. That's why we have to start. That's why I'm starting this center here at the university.
What is your definition of occupation?
Occupation is someone occupying someone else's land, stealing their freedom. Israelis have to recognize that in this part of the world there will be no peace until we have our rights, with a state, for self-determination.
Realistically, what do you see in the future that will work, one or two states?
Two states where we can practice our own sovereignty without trespassing. Dreamwise- I hope for one state, like South Africa. One democratic state where both people elect a government freely, where both people's rights are guaranteed equally.
Israel does not recognize Palestinian rights. If so, then they would recognize rights to movement, school, life, water use, everything is restricted, everything has restrictions.
20% of the population in Israel is Arab-Israeli without equal rights. You have more rights if you go to the army but Arabs don't go to the army. They are denying our identity by mere fact that they call Israeli-Arabs Israeli. Palestinians are living on reservations today, like the Native Americans of the U.S. Our status and our rights are similar to Native Americans.
Let's talk about the elections and the Palestinian government, Hamas and Fateh.
I am an atheist but I am highly politicized. Let me tell you something, I'm going to fight for Hamas to enter the elections but I will fight more for Hamas to not win the elections.
People have to read the elections differently. Hamas did not win, Fateh lost. The number of votes were almost equal.
People are pissed with the West, they tell us to have a democratic election and they don't like the outcome. The boycott is unfair, it's not right to dictate to Palestinians, or to interfere by giving or withdrawing funds because of a political agenda, the political agenda of the West.
People in the West Bank are not happy with Hamas, they're not very religious, but more political than religious. Why do all the Palestinians have to be punished?
Why won't Hamas recognize Israel? It seems that all they have to do is make a few statements and the international funds will come through? Why not recognize Israel?
Hamas announced a truce, they haven't had operations in recent years. What about state-terrorism/Israeli terrorism? Who talks about that?
The West doesn't understand the East. Hamas cannot say they recognize Israel. They support/recognize Israel by making a truce. You can't have a truce with someone you don't recognize. Hamas has done it [recognized Israel] in many ways. Hamas has internal problems. There's "face saving", don't ask us to go naked all over the place.
Israel and the Quartet don't want peace. Israel only recognizes the P.L.O. to do deals and the people are not happy with them.
Do you make a distinction between Israelis adn their government?
There is no difference between the government and the people. Israelis are silent. Our children see violence every day. My son has seen his father on the ground, a soldier's boot at his neck and a gun pointed at him. You think this doesn't affect our children.
In the month that I have been here I have met many people who are working for peace, Israeli and Palestinian. There are Israelis who don't agree with the government and they are doing something about it.
Yes but we need more people to just say enough. I admire Women in Black who go to the wall every week and protest the occupation.
We're both stupid, Israelis and Palestinians, we should do something about the situation without the outside world. But the culture of fear in Israel is strong. Israeli security is one hell of an excuse to get more land and restrictions.
Would it be useful for Palestinian society to make a statement, take a public stand against suicide bombings, against terrorism and violence? I hear that as a great concern of Israelis, that Palestinians don't speak out against the violence and so they continue to justify and rationalize security measures for the protection and safety of their people.
Don't ask the victim to stand up against suicide bombings. I'm against killing civilians anywhere in the world. I don't know anyone who is "enemy" enough to be killed. If we weren't put into such a situation we wouldn't have suicide bombers, it's a reaction, I don't condone it or accept it but I understand.
But, if someone were to hurt my son, I don't know what I would do.
Israel controls the media and blows thing out of proportion. We are not equal, this is not an equal war. If we have a state, an army, self-determination, then talk to us about dealing with suicide bombers. We have nothing left for us to give up, nothing.
I went to Jenin this weekend. My mother lives there. I call her twice a day to make sure she is still alive. I went this time to bury my uncle who died. All week I worried that there would be curfew, or the roads would be closed. In my custom family and friends come to pay their respects to the family after someone dies. If there were any obstacles I worried I would have to stay another week, cancel my classes.
This time at the checkpoint we were stopped. I was in a van of men. I am not religious but in my people's way, it is shameful for a woman or a man to see another, a stranger without clothing. The men in my van were asked to remove their clothing, in front of me.
Sometimes there is a checkpoint between Birzeit and Ramallah. They stop the students, have them strip. Don' smoke, don't smile, don't fold your arms. This is not security, this is humiliation.
One time I saw one of my male students searched. He was asked to strip and saw me there. To this day he does not look me in the eye out of shame.
What do you see as your role a a professor of young Palestinians?
I try to make my students looks at things in a different way, not black and white, and not horizontal or vertical, either. I don't want any more fanatics, fanatics are bad news whatever religion they are. I try to make my students see the human perspective, look at ourselves and each other as humans, all of us as humans.
This world is like one piece of cake and everyone wants it, every generation that goes, there's a wave of destruction behind it.
And within my students there are many factions. I try to mediate the differences between them and their political affiliations.
How are the spirits of the students?
Students are depressed. As a people we feel our destiny is not in our own hands and not the way we like. It is frustrating.
At this point Sonia sat back, looked at me, cocked her head to one side and said, "I'm hungry. Let's eat lunch. Let's go. Philipp let's go have lunch I can't think when I'm this hungry."
We walked uphill from the Higher Education building, past students eating lunch, and to another building with a different cafeteria than the one I visited earlier in the morning. Climbing the stairs Sonia said to me, "You know, I teach U.S. History here at the university. All my students know about America is that it is a big evil, I teach them what is this big evil and how it came about."
Sonia treated Philipp and me to lunch. She insisted that I try a Palestinian specialty, Maskhan. It is a round piece of flat bread with tons of olive oil and chopped, grilled onions, with a large roasted chicken part on top. One eats this with plain yogurt.
We found a table and Sonia continued.
"I was in prison twice. I was tortured, I have several fake teeth," she said.
I asked why she was put in prison to which she didn't really respond. Rather she told me, "A Palestinian is guilty until proven guilty. Don't ask why. You can't ask why, there's no logic in this country. Don't ask why."
Somehow we got back on the topic of the checkpoints. Sonia shared that recently when the Israelis put up a checkpoint between Birzeit and Ramallah, the soldiers split the students into three lines. There were men, pretty women and ugly women. If a girl was standing in the pretty line and a soldier thought her to be ugly, he would ask, "what are you doing here, you're ugly."
Students were ordered to bark like a dog, make cat noises or stand on their hands.
Sonia asked if I had heard of the soldier's lottery. This is a tactic that has been used at the checkpoint to Hebron. A soldier fills his hat or helmet with pieces of paper and has a Palestinian pick out one of the paper pieces. On the paper may be written, "break a finger" or "brake fist through a windshield".
"The checkpoints are not for security, they are for humiliation," Sonia reiterated.
At this point Philipp mentioned that as a German, he participated in compulsory military service. He was trained to run checkpoints for the U.N. "These are not normal checkpoints," he said.
"The checkpoints are understaffed, there are no local language skills, there is constant yelling and there is no flow. Thousands of people go through these checkpoints every day and there are so few people processing them. You don't come into contact with a single human being, you just hear yelling. You'll see for yourself, Heidi."
At this point the conversation changed direction. Philipp told Sonia that his friend in East Jerusalem, whose home he stayed in the night before was recently released from prison. He was arrested without charge and stayed incarcerated for 15 months without trial, without a lawyer, and was released without explanation.
Philipp continued that he hears from his friends that no one sleeps alone anymore for fear of arrest in the middle of the night. You need a sleeping buddy because too often people disappear and at least, if someone else is in the room when the soldiers come there is a witness.
Before we finished, another professor stopped by to talk to Sonia. An engineering professor helping her develop something like a rickshaw for transport back and forth from the future home of the Oral History center, which will be at the old campus of Birzeit University. "A carless campus, that's what we hope for and so we are working on a prototype for it," she said.
We finished lunch hurriedly because Sonia, a high-energy type had yet to prepare for her 2pm lecture. Leaving the building, she turned to me and said, "I like Los Angeles, the ocean and the nice weather. I hope to go back there. They offered me a class to teach, on oral history, but maybe in 2008."
Back in Sonia's office I thanked her for her time. She gave me her brother's number as well, and suggested that I call him. He too is a professor at Birzeit and heads the campaign for the release of Marwan Barghouti, a political prisoner and a member of the Palestinian Legislative Council (PLC).
In parting Sonia said to me, "you always have a home in Ramallah. If you are ever stuck, if you want to meet for coffee or dinner, I'll make you dinner. Please call whenever you need, you are welcome. Now, when you go back through Ramallah, don't be afraid if someone invites you for hummus, join them and see what else you can learn."
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Monday, March 5, 2007
Snippets
Terror Money Tracks
Last Wednesday was pay day here at the journal. I accompanied Najat to deposit both her check and Mira's. We went to Leumi Bank, the branch on Salah-ah-Din. Marwan was there too. He's the Office Manager of the journal who comes in after one p.m. from his other job at Al-Quds newspaper.
The three of us got in line to cash the checks but once at the front we were redirected to another desk. Another bank clerk had to look at the check, record it and sign off on it before cash could be received from the other desk. According to Marwan, this is anti-terrorism law in action. If he goes to the bank with a deposit of 50 NIS (Shekel) or more, the money has to be recorded on his file. Everyone has this now. The authorities can look through all of your records and financial transactions on a whim.
Chag Sameach Purim
This weekend was Purim. Israel knows how to celebrate this joyous holiday with carnivals and costumes, gift basket giving, and delicious treats, the last hurrah before the breadless Pesach. Children set off fireworks in the streets and into the sky. There is no school and communities pour into the streets for parades, drinking and sharing together in the holiday.
For the Palestinians the streets are closed. This weekend the checkpoints were sealed. The roads going to and from the West Bank into Jerusalem were therefore shut to all through traffic. Sabah, a friend of Najat's who volunteers here at the journal came in to the office today. She mentioned to Najat that she couldn't get to Ramallah, the checkpoint was closed.
I asked Sabah what it is like at the checkpoint. What do they do while waiting for hours? Are they told why they have to wait or how long it will be?
Sabah says that all you can do is wait at the checkpoint. If you laugh and enjoy the company of those around you, the soldiers yell and say they see you are enjoying waiting and so you can wait longer. If you are getting frustrated because you are in a hurry, they laugh at you.
Sabah says the soldiers talk on the phone and eat their food while she waits for them to change their mind and let people go through.
Ex-pats get drawn in
Kiyoko gives me insight to the ex-pat/foreign worker scene here in Jerusalem. As a journalist's wife, she doesn't quite fit into the diplomat's crowd but inevitably she comes into contact with them. Many of Kiyoko's lifestyle choices are politicized by those observing her. That she and her husband live in West Jerusalem, that she is learning Hebrew, that she shops in Talpiyot foster the assumptions that she is pro-unilateralism, supports a policy of building settlements and occupation.
These accusations, which is what they are, couldn't be further from the truth. Kiyoko is a dedicated volunteer at the Journal and much of her time is spent learning about the conflict and trying to understand different points of view. Most of the criticisms against her come from the European ex-pat communities here. The American diplomats don't talk about such issues.
This information makes me wonder about the role of the outsider in the Middle East. I see the European scene Kiyoko describes as a great obstacle to peace, feeding Israeli insecurities from the inside. I think the more noble, useful role of the international observer and interactor ought to be more bridgelike, promoting coexistence, utilizing the unique role of being on the outside to the advantage of all peoples here. Not feeding into the lazy and antagonistic black and white approach to conflict zones.
What happens to our identity when we give over to ideologies? How soon do those ideologies take over our better, common sense?
Last Wednesday was pay day here at the journal. I accompanied Najat to deposit both her check and Mira's. We went to Leumi Bank, the branch on Salah-ah-Din. Marwan was there too. He's the Office Manager of the journal who comes in after one p.m. from his other job at Al-Quds newspaper.
The three of us got in line to cash the checks but once at the front we were redirected to another desk. Another bank clerk had to look at the check, record it and sign off on it before cash could be received from the other desk. According to Marwan, this is anti-terrorism law in action. If he goes to the bank with a deposit of 50 NIS (Shekel) or more, the money has to be recorded on his file. Everyone has this now. The authorities can look through all of your records and financial transactions on a whim.
Chag Sameach Purim
This weekend was Purim. Israel knows how to celebrate this joyous holiday with carnivals and costumes, gift basket giving, and delicious treats, the last hurrah before the breadless Pesach. Children set off fireworks in the streets and into the sky. There is no school and communities pour into the streets for parades, drinking and sharing together in the holiday.
For the Palestinians the streets are closed. This weekend the checkpoints were sealed. The roads going to and from the West Bank into Jerusalem were therefore shut to all through traffic. Sabah, a friend of Najat's who volunteers here at the journal came in to the office today. She mentioned to Najat that she couldn't get to Ramallah, the checkpoint was closed.
I asked Sabah what it is like at the checkpoint. What do they do while waiting for hours? Are they told why they have to wait or how long it will be?
Sabah says that all you can do is wait at the checkpoint. If you laugh and enjoy the company of those around you, the soldiers yell and say they see you are enjoying waiting and so you can wait longer. If you are getting frustrated because you are in a hurry, they laugh at you.
Sabah says the soldiers talk on the phone and eat their food while she waits for them to change their mind and let people go through.
Ex-pats get drawn in
Kiyoko gives me insight to the ex-pat/foreign worker scene here in Jerusalem. As a journalist's wife, she doesn't quite fit into the diplomat's crowd but inevitably she comes into contact with them. Many of Kiyoko's lifestyle choices are politicized by those observing her. That she and her husband live in West Jerusalem, that she is learning Hebrew, that she shops in Talpiyot foster the assumptions that she is pro-unilateralism, supports a policy of building settlements and occupation.
These accusations, which is what they are, couldn't be further from the truth. Kiyoko is a dedicated volunteer at the Journal and much of her time is spent learning about the conflict and trying to understand different points of view. Most of the criticisms against her come from the European ex-pat communities here. The American diplomats don't talk about such issues.
This information makes me wonder about the role of the outsider in the Middle East. I see the European scene Kiyoko describes as a great obstacle to peace, feeding Israeli insecurities from the inside. I think the more noble, useful role of the international observer and interactor ought to be more bridgelike, promoting coexistence, utilizing the unique role of being on the outside to the advantage of all peoples here. Not feeding into the lazy and antagonistic black and white approach to conflict zones.
What happens to our identity when we give over to ideologies? How soon do those ideologies take over our better, common sense?
Friday, March 2, 2007
Roots Gone Gray
When I try to explain to Najat how I came to seek an internship at the Palestine-Israel Journal, inevitably I end up in tears, choking on my words and unable to finish my story. I start to tell her that I went to Religious School for thirteen years of my life. I spent five weeks in Israel at the age of fifteen but not until my second year at UC Berkeley, which coincided with the Second Intifada, had I ever heard of the Palestinian people.
I try to recount to her the demonstrations of Fall 2000 on Sproul Plaza, picket signs with "Jews are Nazis" and "Sharon=Hitler". I explain my confusion, ignorance and shock. And how I felt deeply deceived by the very community that shaped so much of my identity.
Turns out, Najat and I came to know of the plight of the Palestinians in a similar way.
Najat is a Palestinian and so perhaps it is strange to hear that she was not aware of her own people's struggle until her late teens. Najat's family is one of the wealthiest Palestinian families in the Jerusalem area. They have been in the clothing industry for decades, specializing in fashion imports from Italy.
She grew up never allowed to walk the streets with the people. She and her siblings had a driver take them to school and back home each day. If they needed anything from the stores, the driver escorted them there and back, or fetched the requested items himself.
Najat attended a school right outside the Old City, a high-walled fortress run by German nuns called Schmidt's Girls College. We walked by the school only two days ago en route to the Arab souk during our lunch break. It is enormous, safe, enclosed. Tall walls made of Jerusalem stone with fencing, making the enclosure reach from ground to sky. Within those walls Najat had no idea what was going on right on the other side. Her father insisted that his daughter take full advantage of their elite education, meaning, Najat's school day ran from 8am until 5pm every day. Her school-sponsored extracurricular activities included gymnastics, piano and guitar.
After Najat graduated from Schmidt's, she attended Bethlehem University in Bethlehem, about 10 kilometers or 6 miles south of the Old City in Jerusalem. Before checkpoints Najat took a bus to get there in about 40 minutes. Now with checkpoints, that same distance can take up to one and a half hours and there is no direct transport.
Her father could no longer protect Najat from the reality of what was happening to her people in those years, the years of the First Intifada. Najat started to hear terms like occupation, 1948, 1967 borders, checkpoints and all the stories involving these words.
"Heidi," she tells me, "I am a Palestinian, I have lived here all of my life and I did not know."
And when she found out, Najat was furious. She was angry with her parents, quarrelled with her beloved father. Najat started to uncover what she had been protected from all of her life. She visited Nablus, Jenin, Ma'ale Adumim. She started asking her grandmother what happened to her grandfather how did he die? Why did they no longer live in Deir Yassin?
In the early nineties, the First Intifada was still rocking the streets of Israel. Any time there was heightened resistance fighting, universities were surrounded and often shut down immediately by the I.D.F. Najat recalls many lectures in the homes of professors, exams taken in the gardens, and often classes were cancelled.
Najat's life changed forever one day in a courtyard of Bethlehem University. An outburst of violence brought soldiers to the university, storming the walls and planting themselves -- armed -- on the rooftops of university buildings. Najat and her friend were standing outside, talking and watching the troops gather overhead and on the periphery. Looking, watching, waiting to see what would happen. Najat looked at her friend to say something and suddenly he began to fall.
Pointing at the place above her brow, between her brown-gold eyes Najat said,"I saw blood here, on his forehead, he was shot right in front of me."
Her friend died instantly.
"I put my hands over my ears and started screaming. Then I lost consciousness."
When Najat awoke she found herself in a hospital bed, her hands still clasped over her ears.
"Can you believe it Heidi? The doctor's could not remove my hands from my ears. I lost consciousness and awoke with my hands in the same place, the doctors and the nurses couldn't remove them from my head."
In the following weeks, Najat's hair began to grow in silvery-gray. The doctors told her it was shock and trauma from witnessing her friend's murder. Najat says her mother is always asking her to dye her roots, but Najat refuses.
"Najat is proud to have this hair, it reminds me every day of who I am. What I must do to help my people," she said, looking me straight in the eyes.
When Najat's roots went gray, she sought work to help her people. Defying her parents' wishes for her, Najat worked in Ramallah at a legal rights center of sorts. Doing legal work to help Palestinians suffering from violations of human rights. With closure however, it became increasingly difficult for her to go back and from the Jerusalem to the West Bank. She wanted to take an apartment near work but her mother protested, claiming it inappropriate and unsafe for a single woman, her daughter, to do so.
"You need to see, Heidi. You need to see how these people suffer, my people. How these people live. Don't listen to Najat. Don't cry because of my words. Don't be affected by my moods. Go see it for yourself. No one can help us. Why doesn't anyone help us?"
Najat admits Palestinians are not perfect. "We are not all angels, I know we have problems," she says.
"But we just want to live, here. Najat is Palestinian. So I don't exist," she exclaims.
On Najat's identity card where the category of nationality sits there is nothing. Actually, this appears: ----. There's something hauntingly inhuman about that designation that leaves me unsettled. To deprive an individual of an identity, a national identity that means so much in our world of 191 nation-states.
I begin to understand when Najat tells me she doesn't exist.
I try to recount to her the demonstrations of Fall 2000 on Sproul Plaza, picket signs with "Jews are Nazis" and "Sharon=Hitler". I explain my confusion, ignorance and shock. And how I felt deeply deceived by the very community that shaped so much of my identity.
Turns out, Najat and I came to know of the plight of the Palestinians in a similar way.
Najat is a Palestinian and so perhaps it is strange to hear that she was not aware of her own people's struggle until her late teens. Najat's family is one of the wealthiest Palestinian families in the Jerusalem area. They have been in the clothing industry for decades, specializing in fashion imports from Italy.
She grew up never allowed to walk the streets with the people. She and her siblings had a driver take them to school and back home each day. If they needed anything from the stores, the driver escorted them there and back, or fetched the requested items himself.
Najat attended a school right outside the Old City, a high-walled fortress run by German nuns called Schmidt's Girls College. We walked by the school only two days ago en route to the Arab souk during our lunch break. It is enormous, safe, enclosed. Tall walls made of Jerusalem stone with fencing, making the enclosure reach from ground to sky. Within those walls Najat had no idea what was going on right on the other side. Her father insisted that his daughter take full advantage of their elite education, meaning, Najat's school day ran from 8am until 5pm every day. Her school-sponsored extracurricular activities included gymnastics, piano and guitar.
After Najat graduated from Schmidt's, she attended Bethlehem University in Bethlehem, about 10 kilometers or 6 miles south of the Old City in Jerusalem. Before checkpoints Najat took a bus to get there in about 40 minutes. Now with checkpoints, that same distance can take up to one and a half hours and there is no direct transport.
Her father could no longer protect Najat from the reality of what was happening to her people in those years, the years of the First Intifada. Najat started to hear terms like occupation, 1948, 1967 borders, checkpoints and all the stories involving these words.
"Heidi," she tells me, "I am a Palestinian, I have lived here all of my life and I did not know."
And when she found out, Najat was furious. She was angry with her parents, quarrelled with her beloved father. Najat started to uncover what she had been protected from all of her life. She visited Nablus, Jenin, Ma'ale Adumim. She started asking her grandmother what happened to her grandfather how did he die? Why did they no longer live in Deir Yassin?
In the early nineties, the First Intifada was still rocking the streets of Israel. Any time there was heightened resistance fighting, universities were surrounded and often shut down immediately by the I.D.F. Najat recalls many lectures in the homes of professors, exams taken in the gardens, and often classes were cancelled.
Najat's life changed forever one day in a courtyard of Bethlehem University. An outburst of violence brought soldiers to the university, storming the walls and planting themselves -- armed -- on the rooftops of university buildings. Najat and her friend were standing outside, talking and watching the troops gather overhead and on the periphery. Looking, watching, waiting to see what would happen. Najat looked at her friend to say something and suddenly he began to fall.
Pointing at the place above her brow, between her brown-gold eyes Najat said,"I saw blood here, on his forehead, he was shot right in front of me."
Her friend died instantly.
"I put my hands over my ears and started screaming. Then I lost consciousness."
When Najat awoke she found herself in a hospital bed, her hands still clasped over her ears.
"Can you believe it Heidi? The doctor's could not remove my hands from my ears. I lost consciousness and awoke with my hands in the same place, the doctors and the nurses couldn't remove them from my head."
In the following weeks, Najat's hair began to grow in silvery-gray. The doctors told her it was shock and trauma from witnessing her friend's murder. Najat says her mother is always asking her to dye her roots, but Najat refuses.
"Najat is proud to have this hair, it reminds me every day of who I am. What I must do to help my people," she said, looking me straight in the eyes.
When Najat's roots went gray, she sought work to help her people. Defying her parents' wishes for her, Najat worked in Ramallah at a legal rights center of sorts. Doing legal work to help Palestinians suffering from violations of human rights. With closure however, it became increasingly difficult for her to go back and from the Jerusalem to the West Bank. She wanted to take an apartment near work but her mother protested, claiming it inappropriate and unsafe for a single woman, her daughter, to do so.
"You need to see, Heidi. You need to see how these people suffer, my people. How these people live. Don't listen to Najat. Don't cry because of my words. Don't be affected by my moods. Go see it for yourself. No one can help us. Why doesn't anyone help us?"
Najat admits Palestinians are not perfect. "We are not all angels, I know we have problems," she says.
"But we just want to live, here. Najat is Palestinian. So I don't exist," she exclaims.
On Najat's identity card where the category of nationality sits there is nothing. Actually, this appears: ----. There's something hauntingly inhuman about that designation that leaves me unsettled. To deprive an individual of an identity, a national identity that means so much in our world of 191 nation-states.
I begin to understand when Najat tells me she doesn't exist.
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Yerushalayim shel Zahav
Earlier this month during the Taglit/Birthright trip I staffed, our Friday schedule included a tour of the Old City in Jerusalem, and a visit to the Kotel, the Western Wall. The night before, Yaniv, the tour guide with whom I staffed, told me that Friday would not be the best day for visiting Jerusalem. This was because the Israeli police expected riots on the Temple Mount that Friday(and for the Fridays since then) due to a construction project at the Mugrabi Gate.
The ramp that starts on the side of the Kotel and offers passage through the Mugrabi Gate to the Dome of Rock suffered severe damage from inclement weather a few years ago. Fearing injury, authorities closed the ramp and began plans to fix the structure. This is where the conflict starts and the situation gets interesting.
According to Kiyuko, a Japanese-American volunteer here at the journal, whose husband is a reporter for Reuters at the Jerusalem bureau, says whenever there is proposed construction in Israel, first a salvation dig must take place. Every layer of soil in Israel is replete with history of civilizations past. So, there has been some digging taking place.
When I stood atop the construction site for a new yeshiva overlooking the Kotel, the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, I saw six workers and one small fork-lift/crane type vehicle. Mostly the men were standing around chatting, not really doing any work. Jokingly, I mused to myself that their job was to keep the dirt patted down because any other activity could incite riots. I don't think I'm too far off from the truth.
In looking into this situation, several points of view have been shared with me.
Kiyuko says archaeologists believe that beneath the Mugrabi ramp are the remains of King Solomon's Stables. If they are allowed the proper amount of space cleared and time to search, they can uncover this piece of ancient history.
Extrapolating from this viewpoint, Israel is taking the opportunity of the Mugrabi ramp reconstruction to further excavate and uncover more evidence of the Jewish People's history in this land. Less political a story is that these archaeologists, whose life's satisfaction is derived from such discoveries, simply want to uncover as much as they can.
According to the Muslim community, Israel is using the excuse of the Mugrabi ramp to dig under the Al-Aqsa mosque to undermine the foundations of the holy site, with the intent of causing the structure's collapse. This theory is discussed each Friday at the mosque during the Friday call to prayer. After the mandatory service, one of the religious leaders at the mosque gives and inspirational speech of sorts. Predictably, this public statement riles the crowds and stones are thrown over the wall, riots break out. During the first week something like 17 Israeli soldiers were wounded in the clashes.
In anticipation of confrontation, restrictions are placed on who gets to pray at the Al-Aqsa Mosque on Fridays these days. The army's orders forbid the entrance of tourists to the Temple Mount and Muslims under the age of 45. Outrage over the situation has crossed international borders. In Egypt last week, my friend Sammy Blumberg witnessed demonstrations protesting Israel and its Mugrabi activity.
Najat believes Israel is digging to prove something historic. She's familiar with Israel's attempt to prove the Jewish people's ancient ties to the Temple Mount but in doing so, she is of the camp that this will cause the collapse of the mosque.
George, at the hotel admits he's not exactly sure. "No one really knows what they're doing. They [Israel's government] have a history of sneaky operations," says George.
Another point of view is Shimi's. Shimi is a young Orthodox Jewish man. I put him in his early twenties. Red hair, lots of freckles, glasses and youth written all over his face, an exhilirating presence due to his passion for teaching all things Jewish. "Six men and a small tractor and that's where the world's eye is focused. Genocide in Sudan and the world's media is covering that mound of dirt," Shimi whispered as we looked over the Kotel, Al-Aqsa, and the Mugrabi ramp. The Jerusalem sky kaleidoscoping from orange to pink to lavender with the setting of the sun.
Shimi's understanding of the situation is that the Muslims are digging beneath the Al-Aqsa mosque, clearing out tunnels that had been filled to stabilize the mosque's foundation. They are doing this in order to erase any evidence of Jewish history beneath the mosque leading to what is beneath the Dome of the Rock. In doing so, they will cause the mosque's demise.
I feel like I'm living a choose your own adventure book and these are the options I have to continue to the journey.
On February 24, Ha'aretz reported that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) is sending a delegation to "examine excavation work being conducted under the Mugrabi ramp leading to the Temple Mount."*
UNESCO hopes to allay some of the tension and suspiscion the Muslims have. The article also reported Prime Minister Ehud Olmert's visit to Turkey. Olmert showed photographs of the ramp to Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan who was not convinced that the plans would not jeopardize the stability of Al-Aqsa. "Olmert agreed to a Turkish suggestion for a technical team from Turkey to inspect the site."**
Whatever the truth may be, I see Olmert's agreeing to the Turkish as well as UNESCO's inspection of the project as an act of good faith. It also supports Olmert's statement that with regard to the Mugrabi ramp, Israel has nothing to hide. However, Ha'aretz reports today that "Israeli police...banned a press conference by opponents to Israeli excavation work near the Temple Mount."***
Organized by Hamas whose activities are prohibited in Israel, the police physically canceled the event at the Commodore Hotel here in East Jerusalem.
Every decision here is symbolic. Allowing the UN and Turkey to oversee this project, but disallowing a Hamas Party led press conference on the issue throws into the face of the Palestinians that their sovereignty is not even nearly recognized by Israel.
This is an excellent example of Israel's refusal to acknowledge the self-determination of the Palestinian people. And also how this behavior only heightens the tensions.
I understand that Hamas does not and will not recognize Israel. I haven't yet decided how I feel about this because I don't fully understand the rationale behind this stance. I do believe there is a rationale, or at the very least, I'm looking to find one and haven't yet given up.
Khaled Meshal is in Russia right now saying that until the occupation is ended and the Israelis apologize to the Palestinian people, Hamas will never recognize Israel. Also, along this line of thinking is what will the Palestinians gain from this recognition? Despite peace talks and previous agreements, Jewish settlements are still being built, one of the biggest obstacles to trust of the Israelis by the Palestinians. Why should they believe that Israel is merely conducting repairs on a ramp and not anything else?
As of today, Ha'aretz reports that "Israel says the dig is meant to salvage archaeological finds ahead of the construction of a new pedestrian walkway up to the hilltop compound, to replace one damged in a 2004 snowstorm. Israeli archaeologists insist there is no danger to the compound."****
I do not believe that Israel is trying to collapse the Al-Aqsa mosque. This would conceivably begin the war of wars in the Middle East. However, it is important to me to understand how repair of a ramp could cause such a hullabaloo.
It is significant that the UN and Turkey are allowed to weigh in on the project. That Hamas cannot hold a press conference on the subject, and Fatah is nowhere to be found.
It is significant that religious leaders in the mosque choose to highlight this project at Friday prayers, although for me this is hearsay. I do not know exactly what is being said, but I do know that riots have in fact occurred nearly every Friday this month at the Temple Mount.
It is important for me to say that such eruptions of violence on the Temple Mount are not about the Al-Aqsa mosque. Rather, it is a concrete issue, manipulated or otherwise by leaders who have their own agendas, that stokes the fires of frustration and oppression these people endure in their daily lives. A desperation I can best explain by the example of a man from the West Bank who came to the office today. He knocked on the door looking for work, any kind of work, cleaning, whatever, so that he may feed his children because there is no work for him at home.
It becomes easier to understand how someone would resort to throwing rocks at soldiers. Walking, armed symbols of one system that keeps them from feeding their children.
*/** http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/objects/pages/PrintArticleEn.jhtml?itemNo+830698
***/****http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/objects/pages/Print ArticleEN.jhtml?itemNo=831692
The ramp that starts on the side of the Kotel and offers passage through the Mugrabi Gate to the Dome of Rock suffered severe damage from inclement weather a few years ago. Fearing injury, authorities closed the ramp and began plans to fix the structure. This is where the conflict starts and the situation gets interesting.
According to Kiyuko, a Japanese-American volunteer here at the journal, whose husband is a reporter for Reuters at the Jerusalem bureau, says whenever there is proposed construction in Israel, first a salvation dig must take place. Every layer of soil in Israel is replete with history of civilizations past. So, there has been some digging taking place.
When I stood atop the construction site for a new yeshiva overlooking the Kotel, the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, I saw six workers and one small fork-lift/crane type vehicle. Mostly the men were standing around chatting, not really doing any work. Jokingly, I mused to myself that their job was to keep the dirt patted down because any other activity could incite riots. I don't think I'm too far off from the truth.
In looking into this situation, several points of view have been shared with me.
Kiyuko says archaeologists believe that beneath the Mugrabi ramp are the remains of King Solomon's Stables. If they are allowed the proper amount of space cleared and time to search, they can uncover this piece of ancient history.
Extrapolating from this viewpoint, Israel is taking the opportunity of the Mugrabi ramp reconstruction to further excavate and uncover more evidence of the Jewish People's history in this land. Less political a story is that these archaeologists, whose life's satisfaction is derived from such discoveries, simply want to uncover as much as they can.
According to the Muslim community, Israel is using the excuse of the Mugrabi ramp to dig under the Al-Aqsa mosque to undermine the foundations of the holy site, with the intent of causing the structure's collapse. This theory is discussed each Friday at the mosque during the Friday call to prayer. After the mandatory service, one of the religious leaders at the mosque gives and inspirational speech of sorts. Predictably, this public statement riles the crowds and stones are thrown over the wall, riots break out. During the first week something like 17 Israeli soldiers were wounded in the clashes.
In anticipation of confrontation, restrictions are placed on who gets to pray at the Al-Aqsa Mosque on Fridays these days. The army's orders forbid the entrance of tourists to the Temple Mount and Muslims under the age of 45. Outrage over the situation has crossed international borders. In Egypt last week, my friend Sammy Blumberg witnessed demonstrations protesting Israel and its Mugrabi activity.
Najat believes Israel is digging to prove something historic. She's familiar with Israel's attempt to prove the Jewish people's ancient ties to the Temple Mount but in doing so, she is of the camp that this will cause the collapse of the mosque.
George, at the hotel admits he's not exactly sure. "No one really knows what they're doing. They [Israel's government] have a history of sneaky operations," says George.
Another point of view is Shimi's. Shimi is a young Orthodox Jewish man. I put him in his early twenties. Red hair, lots of freckles, glasses and youth written all over his face, an exhilirating presence due to his passion for teaching all things Jewish. "Six men and a small tractor and that's where the world's eye is focused. Genocide in Sudan and the world's media is covering that mound of dirt," Shimi whispered as we looked over the Kotel, Al-Aqsa, and the Mugrabi ramp. The Jerusalem sky kaleidoscoping from orange to pink to lavender with the setting of the sun.
Shimi's understanding of the situation is that the Muslims are digging beneath the Al-Aqsa mosque, clearing out tunnels that had been filled to stabilize the mosque's foundation. They are doing this in order to erase any evidence of Jewish history beneath the mosque leading to what is beneath the Dome of the Rock. In doing so, they will cause the mosque's demise.
I feel like I'm living a choose your own adventure book and these are the options I have to continue to the journey.
On February 24, Ha'aretz reported that the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) is sending a delegation to "examine excavation work being conducted under the Mugrabi ramp leading to the Temple Mount."*
UNESCO hopes to allay some of the tension and suspiscion the Muslims have. The article also reported Prime Minister Ehud Olmert's visit to Turkey. Olmert showed photographs of the ramp to Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan who was not convinced that the plans would not jeopardize the stability of Al-Aqsa. "Olmert agreed to a Turkish suggestion for a technical team from Turkey to inspect the site."**
Whatever the truth may be, I see Olmert's agreeing to the Turkish as well as UNESCO's inspection of the project as an act of good faith. It also supports Olmert's statement that with regard to the Mugrabi ramp, Israel has nothing to hide. However, Ha'aretz reports today that "Israeli police...banned a press conference by opponents to Israeli excavation work near the Temple Mount."***
Organized by Hamas whose activities are prohibited in Israel, the police physically canceled the event at the Commodore Hotel here in East Jerusalem.
Every decision here is symbolic. Allowing the UN and Turkey to oversee this project, but disallowing a Hamas Party led press conference on the issue throws into the face of the Palestinians that their sovereignty is not even nearly recognized by Israel.
This is an excellent example of Israel's refusal to acknowledge the self-determination of the Palestinian people. And also how this behavior only heightens the tensions.
I understand that Hamas does not and will not recognize Israel. I haven't yet decided how I feel about this because I don't fully understand the rationale behind this stance. I do believe there is a rationale, or at the very least, I'm looking to find one and haven't yet given up.
Khaled Meshal is in Russia right now saying that until the occupation is ended and the Israelis apologize to the Palestinian people, Hamas will never recognize Israel. Also, along this line of thinking is what will the Palestinians gain from this recognition? Despite peace talks and previous agreements, Jewish settlements are still being built, one of the biggest obstacles to trust of the Israelis by the Palestinians. Why should they believe that Israel is merely conducting repairs on a ramp and not anything else?
As of today, Ha'aretz reports that "Israel says the dig is meant to salvage archaeological finds ahead of the construction of a new pedestrian walkway up to the hilltop compound, to replace one damged in a 2004 snowstorm. Israeli archaeologists insist there is no danger to the compound."****
I do not believe that Israel is trying to collapse the Al-Aqsa mosque. This would conceivably begin the war of wars in the Middle East. However, it is important to me to understand how repair of a ramp could cause such a hullabaloo.
It is significant that the UN and Turkey are allowed to weigh in on the project. That Hamas cannot hold a press conference on the subject, and Fatah is nowhere to be found.
It is significant that religious leaders in the mosque choose to highlight this project at Friday prayers, although for me this is hearsay. I do not know exactly what is being said, but I do know that riots have in fact occurred nearly every Friday this month at the Temple Mount.
It is important for me to say that such eruptions of violence on the Temple Mount are not about the Al-Aqsa mosque. Rather, it is a concrete issue, manipulated or otherwise by leaders who have their own agendas, that stokes the fires of frustration and oppression these people endure in their daily lives. A desperation I can best explain by the example of a man from the West Bank who came to the office today. He knocked on the door looking for work, any kind of work, cleaning, whatever, so that he may feed his children because there is no work for him at home.
It becomes easier to understand how someone would resort to throwing rocks at soldiers. Walking, armed symbols of one system that keeps them from feeding their children.
*/** http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/objects/pages/PrintArticleEn.jhtml?itemNo+830698
***/****http://www.haaretz.com/hasen/objects/pages/Print ArticleEN.jhtml?itemNo=831692
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
Nablus Under Siege
On Sunday the Israeli Defense Forces uncovered a workshop for bomb construction in the West Bank City of Nablus. Since then the I.D.F. has held Nablus under siege. There are a few articles in Ha'aretz describing the campaign and the quest for seven suspected individuals behind these workshops. Another two bomb construction labs have been uncovered during this most recent campaign.
Najat is a wreck. Her friend who is a nurse in Nablus called today to describe what is happening there because she is frightened. The suspects they are looking for are boys of 17 and 18 years of age. There is a curfew and unceasing shooting. People have no food because they cannot leave their homes. The ambulances carrying wounded are being shot at. There is a need for medicine.
Najat keeps taking off her glasses and wiping her eyes.
Her friend says that yesterday a boy of thirteen was caught by the army. He was going to a neighbor's to get bread. The soldiers grabbed him and put him under the wheel of a tank. They screamed for the people to come out and see what they would do if anyone broke the curfew or the lock down. After threatening the boy with death, they let him go.
According to Al-Jazeera, the IDF pulled its troops out this morning at dawn. The mayor of Nablus asked the residents to resume normal life but there is suspicion that it is a temporary cease of the siege.
http://english.aljazeera.net/NR/exeres/191EC9B6-B0F7-43BF-905D-3E3519439CC9.htm
Najat asks if it is justified to completely thrash the entire City of Nablus for this search? Is it rational to put every individual in danger? Is it humane to deprive people of food and medicine?
She feels no one cares. She is Palestinian and so she doesn't exist. No one is helping, no one can do anything. She wants Israelis to go and see and tell her if what is happening is right. She can't understand how the Israeli people can stand by and let this happen, without question or protest.
More houses are being destroyed, more children traumatized, more hatred ignited.
Here in East Jerusalem things are quiet. The sun has come out from the clouds, the rain has stopped. It's so hard to believe that not so far away, one city is under siege.
I don't know what to do or what to say. Najat is overwhelmed with helplessness and I can offer no comfort. Her mouth is set firmly in a frown and she has put her eyeglasses on to focus on her work. Similar to yesterday's rain at which Najat stared at through the window, how many of these storms of her people has she witnessed, able only to watch?
The next few days will be fascinating. I wonder if this is the beginning of a cycle of violence. Jewish settler found dead in Hebron. Israeli army raids Nablus, uncovers bomb workshops, seeks out 7 (8 according to Al-Jazeera) suspects of crimes perpetrated. Nablus' streets are filled with debris and fear. What happens next? Who will administer what kind of justice from this most recent act of agression against the Palestinian people?
Najat is a wreck. Her friend who is a nurse in Nablus called today to describe what is happening there because she is frightened. The suspects they are looking for are boys of 17 and 18 years of age. There is a curfew and unceasing shooting. People have no food because they cannot leave their homes. The ambulances carrying wounded are being shot at. There is a need for medicine.
Najat keeps taking off her glasses and wiping her eyes.
Her friend says that yesterday a boy of thirteen was caught by the army. He was going to a neighbor's to get bread. The soldiers grabbed him and put him under the wheel of a tank. They screamed for the people to come out and see what they would do if anyone broke the curfew or the lock down. After threatening the boy with death, they let him go.
According to Al-Jazeera, the IDF pulled its troops out this morning at dawn. The mayor of Nablus asked the residents to resume normal life but there is suspicion that it is a temporary cease of the siege.
http://english.aljazeera.net/NR/exeres/191EC9B6-B0F7-43BF-905D-3E3519439CC9.htm
Najat asks if it is justified to completely thrash the entire City of Nablus for this search? Is it rational to put every individual in danger? Is it humane to deprive people of food and medicine?
She feels no one cares. She is Palestinian and so she doesn't exist. No one is helping, no one can do anything. She wants Israelis to go and see and tell her if what is happening is right. She can't understand how the Israeli people can stand by and let this happen, without question or protest.
More houses are being destroyed, more children traumatized, more hatred ignited.
Here in East Jerusalem things are quiet. The sun has come out from the clouds, the rain has stopped. It's so hard to believe that not so far away, one city is under siege.
I don't know what to do or what to say. Najat is overwhelmed with helplessness and I can offer no comfort. Her mouth is set firmly in a frown and she has put her eyeglasses on to focus on her work. Similar to yesterday's rain at which Najat stared at through the window, how many of these storms of her people has she witnessed, able only to watch?
The next few days will be fascinating. I wonder if this is the beginning of a cycle of violence. Jewish settler found dead in Hebron. Israeli army raids Nablus, uncovers bomb workshops, seeks out 7 (8 according to Al-Jazeera) suspects of crimes perpetrated. Nablus' streets are filled with debris and fear. What happens next? Who will administer what kind of justice from this most recent act of agression against the Palestinian people?
Monday, February 26, 2007
Mira and Shimrit
At the journal Mira is Lotahn's counterpart. That is, she is the PR go-to woman on the Palestinian side. Mira is gorgeous. She's as tall as me, slender, with straight thick almost black hair that hangs more than mid-way down her back. Her creamy brown complexion is flawless and her deep brown eyes are an incredible sight. Mira knows how to use her eye make-up to highlight these brown eyes of hers.
Last Wednesday Mira wore a sherbet-lime sweatshirt and the most perfectly matched eyeshadow, with turquoise eyeliner underneath. I can't forget this because this was the day I accompanied Mira to West Jerusalem to the Bookfair. Although I was not scheduled for a shift that day, I had to go with her because she'd never been to West Jerusalem. Taking a moment to register this information, I stared at Mira for more than a few seconds wondering how this could be.
From where I live in East Jerusalem, it is a 20 minute walk, at most, to the happening downtown area of West Jerusalem where Ben Yehuda meets Jaffa Street. Mira has lived here all the 24 years of her life and this commute that I made each day last week, she'd never had reason to do.
Mira is a Palestinian Christian. Recently, she began a fast until Easter that prohibits her eating much else but vegetables. Another stipulation of this Easter fast is that you are not to have sexual relations over the duration of the fast. However, as Mira is married, the fast rules over 60 days time do not apply to her. She says the abstaining from relations with one's husband is an unreasonable aspect of the fast and so tradition has it that a married woman need oberve the fast for one week in the beginning and one week in the end. For the rest of the year on Wednesdays and Fridays, Mira observes the rules of the fast, to fulfill the full obligation of fast days.
Mira lives in the West Bank. Each day she crosses a check point to get to work. Mira drives with her husband, Samer, each morning. He sells cosmetics in East Jerusalem and three other cities in the area, depending on what day of the week it is.
Mira and her husband were married last year after a rather turbulent courtship. The couple was introduced by mutual friends. Realizing they liked each other, Mira and Samer began to date. They had to keep their affection undercover however because Mira is a Christian and her husband is a Muslim.
In the Islamic tradition, a Muslim man may marry a non-Muslim wife. However, the children must be raised Muslim, after the father. The woman may elect to retain her religious tradition, or convert to Islam.
A Muslim woman may marry a Jew or a Christian, as these are people of the Book. However, the non-Muslim man that the Muslim woman marries must convert to Islam. The conversion must be voluntary and not merely an appeasment but rather, a sincere acceptance of Islam as the true religion. This is because the children take after the father's faith.
When Mira's family discovered her relationship with Samer, they objected. Mira and Samer broke up and pursued other relationships, sort of. Mira went through a period of deep depression. She tried to commit suicide. After which, her parents sent her to Amman to be with family, away from Samer and her memories. While in Amman, a cousin of Mira expressed interest and eventually proposed marriage to Mira. She accepted, but she says from a very numb place. Mira was just going through the motions. She returned to her home in the West Bank, and after awhile, the engagement was broken.
Meanwhile, Samer pursued another woman. He proposed to her and she accepted. But, days before the wedding, Samer called it off. Samer still loved Mira and Mira still loved Samer. All along they had been text messaging and calling one another, in spite of Mira's family's wishes that she not be in contact with Samer.
Mira and Samer began to date again. They decided they'd rather be together than apart. Mira's parents refused to talk to her for months. Eventually, they accepted her decision. Mira says the situation improved when her parents finally agreed to meet Samer's family. The families like each other and they get along. Life has become easier.
Mira told me a story about last Valentine's Day. She and Samer went to enjoy a romantic dinner at a restaurant near to where they live but opposite a check point. Upon returning home through the checkpoint, the soldiers made Mira get out of the car and walk through security while her husband drove. She had to also take off her boots and walk barefoot.
Lotahn, Mira and I walked to the bus station about ten minutes from the office. We waited for the number 6 bus that ends up at the Jerusalem New Central Bus Station across from the Congress Center, where the book fair was held. It was a beautiful day with sunshine and a pleasant breeze. I started asking Mira lots of questions about herself and her life, Lotahn whispered to me, "I'm glad you came with us."G
We arrived in West Jerusalem among the throngs of people walking about outside the Central Bus Station. Lotahn showed us an underground tunnel that cuts under and across the street to the Congress Cetner, saves time and increases safety avoiding crosswalks.
Going through security at the Congress Center, I heard Mira say to Lotahn, "this is what you mean that there is security at every door."
At our booth, which we shared with another organization called Windows for Peace, an Arabic and Hebrew language children's magazine, sat Shimrit. Shimrit is Israeli, from Tel Aviv, around 28 years old. She was happy to make the commute each day from Tel Aviv for the bookfair, as it got her out of the office. Moreover, it gave her the opportunity to take flute lessons from a Jerusalemite that specializes in the Arabic flute that Shimrit is learning to play.
Shimrit also refused service in the army, I found out. Basically, she got a doctor's note, a psychological evaluation excusing her from service. Shimrit feels the age at which the army comes in a young person's life is exactly when they need to discover who they are themselves. To be absorbed in a regimented system of rules and orders curtails that process of self-discovery. She said something like, "just when you are blossoming you are expected to submit to this system..."
Shimrit is short and petite, shoulder-length thick, black curly hair, and large features. I wonder if her family came to Israel from North Africa, or one of the Arab countries of the Middle East.
Shimrit and Mira and I discussed why it is that East and West Jerusalem are worlds apart to Israelis and Palestinians, respectively. And also, what are some of the obstacles to peace in this region.
Shimrit and Mira agreed that on the question of Jerusalem, there's nothing that they need to do, nor people they know who live on the other side. What's the point of going?
Mira says everything she needs can be found in East Jerusalem, she doesn't need to shop in West Jerusalem, which would be a reason for going there.
I asked Shimrit about the fear factor. That so many Israelis think --East Jerusalem-- shake their head and say "no way".
She agreed it's important to face those fears. But when we got into the political discussion, when Mira described her understanding of the situation, I understood Shimrit's body language as skeptical and alert. Her eyebrows furrowed and she became quiet and then distracted as Mira and I continued the conversation.
Specifically, I mentioned that each day I walk to the office, I take the long route, about 10-15 minutes walk around Salah-a-din. I like to see which shops open on time, later, earlier. What the Israeli police people are doing next to the post office. How many Israeli police officers are stationed at the gate entrance into the Old City, are there any barricades, etc...
I asked Shimrit and Mira what the effect of such security and random checks has on Palestinians, if it's acceptable, if security is a good enough rationalization for the both of them.
Mira understood the security issue, the threat of suicide bombers. But I think it's difficult to reconcile with her own frustrating experience with check points as she means no one harm. The harrassment factor therefore is rather prominent for her. But she seems to point the finger of blame at the Israeli government and its policies, the Israeli people aren't doing this to her.
Interestingly, Shimrit holds the people culpable for continued violence and chasm it makes between the Israelis and Palestinians. She feels Israelis should have experiences that challenge their pre-conceived notions of Palestinians, and Palestinians should do the same for Israelis.
I don't think Shimrit has visited East Jerusalem.
Honestly, I was frustrated with this interaction. I would think that these two young women, in the line of work that they're in, representing publications for peace and coexistence, they'd be more curious about each other and their life experiences. But, as Shimrit shared with me, she's not a part of Windows for Peace because she believes it's an answer to the conflict, or because she's a peace activist, but rather, it's a good job. Also, the organzation does good work, at the very least it doesn't exacerbate the situation.
As an Israeli, Shimrit has the option of turning awareness of injustice off and on. She can choose to engage with Mira and learn more and be touched by her experience, or she can simply do the task assigned to her and continue on. I don't begrudge this privilege that Shimrit possesses. I just want it for Mira, too.
Lotahn and Mira left me and Shimrit in order to do some potential publisher/distributor public relations work. I asked Lotahn if Mira and I could leave early in order to go to Mahane Yehuda and be back by three p.m. when Samer picks up Mira. He agreed that would be a nice idea.
It felt incredibly strange to show Mira around West Jerusalem. Me, a foreigner, visiting for a short time, directing her on the streets, explaining the layout, navigating the bus lines. Mira bought men's socks and undershirts for Samer. 10 NIS for three shirts. The socks per pair were a little more costly.
At one point Mira asked again the name of the market. When I told her she said, "you know Heidi, there are many explosions here."
I try not to think about such facts while shopping for chocolate rugelach and halvah.
Mira, I could sense, was a little nervous about time. And she admitted that her husband does not like for her to take buses. Fortunately, we made it back to East Jerusalem and the office in time.
Last Wednesday Mira wore a sherbet-lime sweatshirt and the most perfectly matched eyeshadow, with turquoise eyeliner underneath. I can't forget this because this was the day I accompanied Mira to West Jerusalem to the Bookfair. Although I was not scheduled for a shift that day, I had to go with her because she'd never been to West Jerusalem. Taking a moment to register this information, I stared at Mira for more than a few seconds wondering how this could be.
From where I live in East Jerusalem, it is a 20 minute walk, at most, to the happening downtown area of West Jerusalem where Ben Yehuda meets Jaffa Street. Mira has lived here all the 24 years of her life and this commute that I made each day last week, she'd never had reason to do.
Mira is a Palestinian Christian. Recently, she began a fast until Easter that prohibits her eating much else but vegetables. Another stipulation of this Easter fast is that you are not to have sexual relations over the duration of the fast. However, as Mira is married, the fast rules over 60 days time do not apply to her. She says the abstaining from relations with one's husband is an unreasonable aspect of the fast and so tradition has it that a married woman need oberve the fast for one week in the beginning and one week in the end. For the rest of the year on Wednesdays and Fridays, Mira observes the rules of the fast, to fulfill the full obligation of fast days.
Mira lives in the West Bank. Each day she crosses a check point to get to work. Mira drives with her husband, Samer, each morning. He sells cosmetics in East Jerusalem and three other cities in the area, depending on what day of the week it is.
Mira and her husband were married last year after a rather turbulent courtship. The couple was introduced by mutual friends. Realizing they liked each other, Mira and Samer began to date. They had to keep their affection undercover however because Mira is a Christian and her husband is a Muslim.
In the Islamic tradition, a Muslim man may marry a non-Muslim wife. However, the children must be raised Muslim, after the father. The woman may elect to retain her religious tradition, or convert to Islam.
A Muslim woman may marry a Jew or a Christian, as these are people of the Book. However, the non-Muslim man that the Muslim woman marries must convert to Islam. The conversion must be voluntary and not merely an appeasment but rather, a sincere acceptance of Islam as the true religion. This is because the children take after the father's faith.
When Mira's family discovered her relationship with Samer, they objected. Mira and Samer broke up and pursued other relationships, sort of. Mira went through a period of deep depression. She tried to commit suicide. After which, her parents sent her to Amman to be with family, away from Samer and her memories. While in Amman, a cousin of Mira expressed interest and eventually proposed marriage to Mira. She accepted, but she says from a very numb place. Mira was just going through the motions. She returned to her home in the West Bank, and after awhile, the engagement was broken.
Meanwhile, Samer pursued another woman. He proposed to her and she accepted. But, days before the wedding, Samer called it off. Samer still loved Mira and Mira still loved Samer. All along they had been text messaging and calling one another, in spite of Mira's family's wishes that she not be in contact with Samer.
Mira and Samer began to date again. They decided they'd rather be together than apart. Mira's parents refused to talk to her for months. Eventually, they accepted her decision. Mira says the situation improved when her parents finally agreed to meet Samer's family. The families like each other and they get along. Life has become easier.
Mira told me a story about last Valentine's Day. She and Samer went to enjoy a romantic dinner at a restaurant near to where they live but opposite a check point. Upon returning home through the checkpoint, the soldiers made Mira get out of the car and walk through security while her husband drove. She had to also take off her boots and walk barefoot.
Lotahn, Mira and I walked to the bus station about ten minutes from the office. We waited for the number 6 bus that ends up at the Jerusalem New Central Bus Station across from the Congress Center, where the book fair was held. It was a beautiful day with sunshine and a pleasant breeze. I started asking Mira lots of questions about herself and her life, Lotahn whispered to me, "I'm glad you came with us."G
We arrived in West Jerusalem among the throngs of people walking about outside the Central Bus Station. Lotahn showed us an underground tunnel that cuts under and across the street to the Congress Cetner, saves time and increases safety avoiding crosswalks.
Going through security at the Congress Center, I heard Mira say to Lotahn, "this is what you mean that there is security at every door."
At our booth, which we shared with another organization called Windows for Peace, an Arabic and Hebrew language children's magazine, sat Shimrit. Shimrit is Israeli, from Tel Aviv, around 28 years old. She was happy to make the commute each day from Tel Aviv for the bookfair, as it got her out of the office. Moreover, it gave her the opportunity to take flute lessons from a Jerusalemite that specializes in the Arabic flute that Shimrit is learning to play.
Shimrit also refused service in the army, I found out. Basically, she got a doctor's note, a psychological evaluation excusing her from service. Shimrit feels the age at which the army comes in a young person's life is exactly when they need to discover who they are themselves. To be absorbed in a regimented system of rules and orders curtails that process of self-discovery. She said something like, "just when you are blossoming you are expected to submit to this system..."
Shimrit is short and petite, shoulder-length thick, black curly hair, and large features. I wonder if her family came to Israel from North Africa, or one of the Arab countries of the Middle East.
Shimrit and Mira and I discussed why it is that East and West Jerusalem are worlds apart to Israelis and Palestinians, respectively. And also, what are some of the obstacles to peace in this region.
Shimrit and Mira agreed that on the question of Jerusalem, there's nothing that they need to do, nor people they know who live on the other side. What's the point of going?
Mira says everything she needs can be found in East Jerusalem, she doesn't need to shop in West Jerusalem, which would be a reason for going there.
I asked Shimrit about the fear factor. That so many Israelis think --East Jerusalem-- shake their head and say "no way".
She agreed it's important to face those fears. But when we got into the political discussion, when Mira described her understanding of the situation, I understood Shimrit's body language as skeptical and alert. Her eyebrows furrowed and she became quiet and then distracted as Mira and I continued the conversation.
Specifically, I mentioned that each day I walk to the office, I take the long route, about 10-15 minutes walk around Salah-a-din. I like to see which shops open on time, later, earlier. What the Israeli police people are doing next to the post office. How many Israeli police officers are stationed at the gate entrance into the Old City, are there any barricades, etc...
I asked Shimrit and Mira what the effect of such security and random checks has on Palestinians, if it's acceptable, if security is a good enough rationalization for the both of them.
Mira understood the security issue, the threat of suicide bombers. But I think it's difficult to reconcile with her own frustrating experience with check points as she means no one harm. The harrassment factor therefore is rather prominent for her. But she seems to point the finger of blame at the Israeli government and its policies, the Israeli people aren't doing this to her.
Interestingly, Shimrit holds the people culpable for continued violence and chasm it makes between the Israelis and Palestinians. She feels Israelis should have experiences that challenge their pre-conceived notions of Palestinians, and Palestinians should do the same for Israelis.
I don't think Shimrit has visited East Jerusalem.
Honestly, I was frustrated with this interaction. I would think that these two young women, in the line of work that they're in, representing publications for peace and coexistence, they'd be more curious about each other and their life experiences. But, as Shimrit shared with me, she's not a part of Windows for Peace because she believes it's an answer to the conflict, or because she's a peace activist, but rather, it's a good job. Also, the organzation does good work, at the very least it doesn't exacerbate the situation.
As an Israeli, Shimrit has the option of turning awareness of injustice off and on. She can choose to engage with Mira and learn more and be touched by her experience, or she can simply do the task assigned to her and continue on. I don't begrudge this privilege that Shimrit possesses. I just want it for Mira, too.
Lotahn and Mira left me and Shimrit in order to do some potential publisher/distributor public relations work. I asked Lotahn if Mira and I could leave early in order to go to Mahane Yehuda and be back by three p.m. when Samer picks up Mira. He agreed that would be a nice idea.
It felt incredibly strange to show Mira around West Jerusalem. Me, a foreigner, visiting for a short time, directing her on the streets, explaining the layout, navigating the bus lines. Mira bought men's socks and undershirts for Samer. 10 NIS for three shirts. The socks per pair were a little more costly.
At one point Mira asked again the name of the market. When I told her she said, "you know Heidi, there are many explosions here."
I try not to think about such facts while shopping for chocolate rugelach and halvah.
Mira, I could sense, was a little nervous about time. And she admitted that her husband does not like for her to take buses. Fortunately, we made it back to East Jerusalem and the office in time.
Sunday, February 25, 2007
Avi's Point of View
Avi came to Israel in the 1960s from South Africa. He identifies himself as a Zionist. To Avi this means, "the future of the Jewish people is here [Israel}."
Avi calls himself a peace pacifist, different than a peace activist. He used to write for both the Jerusalem Post and the Jerusalem Report. Finished with the Jerusalem Post, Avi came to the Palestine Israel Journal in search of work. He is now the managing editor for the Israeli side.
Avi is an older gentleman with a younger wife and when I finally met his three sons aged 19-12, I made the embarassing mistake of asking if they were his grandchildren. His oldest son assured me it's a common mistake. I can tell that Avi enjoys his sons tremendously and in our conversations, it is clear that he takes great interest in the forming of their identities, including their national identities.
At the Jerusalem book fair Avi and I shared a long shift,which gave me the opportunity to understand his very different point of view on the work of the journal and the situation here in Israel/Palestine.
The next issue of the journal will focus on Jerusalem in commemoration of the 40th anniversary of the unification of the City of Gold. For the Palestinians, it is the 40th anniversary of the annexation of Jerusalem, or the "Naqba"-- catastrophe.
Avi takes issue with the historical canon on the effects of the 1967 war on Jerusalem, from the Palestinian point of view. According to Avi, prior to 1967 Jerusalem was under Jordanian rule and no one had freedom of movement, not Jews, not Palestians-- Muslim or Christian. When Israel entered Jerusalem and declared East Jerusalem as a part of Israeli territory, the era following that monumentous event was one of unparalleled and unrepeated openness. In fact, Avi claims that the street I now live on, Azzahra Street, was one of the most happening haunts of Israel. After he and his colleagues finished at the Jerusalem Post around midnight, they'd go in search of beer and women. While Azzahra Street offered few women socializing in the pubs, there was a lot of beer and late-night hours, unlike the neighborhoods of West Jerusalem.
Today on Azzahra Street, every shop closes its shutters and doors by night fall and few if any people are found on the streets. I'm still investigating the commonly agreed upon reasons that this is so...
Continuing with Avi, because we were conversing at the bookfair and had attend first to passersby, the conversation was rather jolted. I haven't had too much time to think and compare all he said, because he spoke more of history and not so much personal experience.
Here are some of the thought-provoking highlights:
Avi says the wall of separation is a direct response to suicide bombers.
http://www.unitedjerusalem.org/index2.asp?id=412158
http://www.jcpa.org/jl/vp513.htm
Avi says no Palestinian-led anti-terror group exists that protests the practice of suicide bombers.
http://www.cnsnews.com/ForeignBureaus/Archive/200401/FOR20040105f.html
http://www.worldnetdaily.com/news/article.asp?ARTICLE_ID=45509
http://www.ihrc.org.uk/show.php?id=31
http://www.cnn.com/2004/US/06/02/saudi.terror/index.html
Avi says had the Palestinians accepted and not attacked the declared state of Israel in 1948, the partition plan for Palestine included much more territory than what is possible today. The original plan included parts of the Galilee and the Negev.
http://www.ifamericansknew.org/history/origin.html
http://www.palestinefacts.org/pf_maps.php
http://www.representativepress.org/IsraelHistory.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/static/in_depth/world/2001/israel_and_palestinians/key_maps/6.stm
Avi says Ben Gurion took a genius chance in declaring a State of Israel inspired by the pressure of absorbing thousands of Jewish refugee Holocaust survivors when the world was rejecting these people left and right.
Avi says there is no free press of Palestine.
http://archives.cjr.org/year/93/6/palestine.asp
Avi laments that in this region the extremists on both sides have one, citing Yigal Amir, murderer of Yitzhak Rabin as the most successful assassin in history.
Avi believes that if the Palestinians within Israel would mobilize their electorate and vote in elections in Jerusalem, they may actually have their demands met and possibly elect a mayor of Jerusalem. Work within the system.
Avi points out that the most prominently recognized leader of the Palestinian people in 1948 was Muhammed Amin al-Husseini , the Grand Mufti of Jersualem, and one of Hitler's allies in the Middle East.
http://www.palestinefacts.org/pf_mandate_grand_mufti.php
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/biography/mufti.html
http://www.tellthechildrenthetruth.com/gallery/
http://www.tellthechildrenthetruth.com/ourmessage.html
Avi says indeed today Israel is the Goliath and Palestine the David.
Avi says Palestinian children are given five shekel to carry, unknowingly, explosive-rigged packages through checkpoints.
Avi told me about a pregnant Irish woman going through a security check on ELAL, who stated she was en route to meet her Palestinian fiance and father of her child, in Israel, specifically the West Bank. ELAL employees became suspicious and searched her bag, finding her suitcase included an explosive set up to explode mid-air. She was unaware that her entire relationship and the child in her womb were part of a plot of to terrorize Israel.
Avi states the self-destruction mentality of this region paralyzes the peace process.
With regard to the alleged Sabra/Shatila massacre of 1982, Israel is responsible fo Arabs killing Arabs when Israel thought it had an ally in the Phalangists of Lebanon, who clashed with the Lebanese Muslims.
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/History/Sabra_&_Shatila.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/2255902.stm
http://www.indictsharon.net/
http://electronicintifada.net/cgi-bin/artman/exec/view.cgi/7/1929
http://www.sabra-shatila.be/english/
Avi resents the comparison of Israel to South Africa in terms of apartheid. He points out anti-miscegenation laws in which South African police were ordered to go house to house to find mixed race couples in the act of having sex and punishing them accordingly. He's familiar with apartheid and firmly believes that Israel cannot be accused of practicing such a system of government.
http://www.africanaencyclopedia.com/apartheid/apartheid.html
http://www.zmag.org/Sustainers/Content/2003-08/13beal.cfm
Listening to Avi throws me into another confusion frenzy. When Avi recounts the horror stories of successful and failed suicide bomb attempts, in my mind I understand very well why Israel practices the policies it does. Security policy that is so strict that Israelis and visitors are aware of this reality at every entrace to every cafe, mall, or bus station. Just Friday on my way to Tel Aviv, I went through two security checks at the Jerusalem Central Bus Station and two more upon arrival in Tel Aviv. There is a police person on every single bus I ride and one stationed at most if not all bus stops.
Somewhere in all of this security, however, structural violence, profiling and angst has resulted on both sides. This is the stuff that I need to understand more of.
Avi calls himself a peace pacifist, different than a peace activist. He used to write for both the Jerusalem Post and the Jerusalem Report. Finished with the Jerusalem Post, Avi came to the Palestine Israel Journal in search of work. He is now the managing editor for the Israeli side.
Avi is an older gentleman with a younger wife and when I finally met his three sons aged 19-12, I made the embarassing mistake of asking if they were his grandchildren. His oldest son assured me it's a common mistake. I can tell that Avi enjoys his sons tremendously and in our conversations, it is clear that he takes great interest in the forming of their identities, including their national identities.
At the Jerusalem book fair Avi and I shared a long shift,which gave me the opportunity to understand his very different point of view on the work of the journal and the situation here in Israel/Palestine.
The next issue of the journal will focus on Jerusalem in commemoration of the 40th anniversary of the unification of the City of Gold. For the Palestinians, it is the 40th anniversary of the annexation of Jerusalem, or the "Naqba"-- catastrophe.
Avi takes issue with the historical canon on the effects of the 1967 war on Jerusalem, from the Palestinian point of view. According to Avi, prior to 1967 Jerusalem was under Jordanian rule and no one had freedom of movement, not Jews, not Palestians-- Muslim or Christian. When Israel entered Jerusalem and declared East Jerusalem as a part of Israeli territory, the era following that monumentous event was one of unparalleled and unrepeated openness. In fact, Avi claims that the street I now live on, Azzahra Street, was one of the most happening haunts of Israel. After he and his colleagues finished at the Jerusalem Post around midnight, they'd go in search of beer and women. While Azzahra Street offered few women socializing in the pubs, there was a lot of beer and late-night hours, unlike the neighborhoods of West Jerusalem.
Today on Azzahra Street, every shop closes its shutters and doors by night fall and few if any people are found on the streets. I'm still investigating the commonly agreed upon reasons that this is so...
Continuing with Avi, because we were conversing at the bookfair and had attend first to passersby, the conversation was rather jolted. I haven't had too much time to think and compare all he said, because he spoke more of history and not so much personal experience.
Here are some of the thought-provoking highlights:
Avi says the wall of separation is a direct response to suicide bombers.
http://www.unitedjerusalem.org/index2.asp?id=412158
http://www.jcpa.org/jl/vp513.htm
Avi says no Palestinian-led anti-terror group exists that protests the practice of suicide bombers.
http://www.cnsnews.com/ForeignBureaus/Archive/200401/FOR20040105f.html
http://www.worldnetdaily.com/news/article.asp?ARTICLE_ID=45509
http://www.ihrc.org.uk/show.php?id=31
http://www.cnn.com/2004/US/06/02/saudi.terror/index.html
Avi says had the Palestinians accepted and not attacked the declared state of Israel in 1948, the partition plan for Palestine included much more territory than what is possible today. The original plan included parts of the Galilee and the Negev.
http://www.ifamericansknew.org/history/origin.html
http://www.palestinefacts.org/pf_maps.php
http://www.representativepress.org/IsraelHistory.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/static/in_depth/world/2001/israel_and_palestinians/key_maps/6.stm
Avi says Ben Gurion took a genius chance in declaring a State of Israel inspired by the pressure of absorbing thousands of Jewish refugee Holocaust survivors when the world was rejecting these people left and right.
Avi says there is no free press of Palestine.
http://archives.cjr.org/year/93/6/palestine.asp
Avi laments that in this region the extremists on both sides have one, citing Yigal Amir, murderer of Yitzhak Rabin as the most successful assassin in history.
Avi believes that if the Palestinians within Israel would mobilize their electorate and vote in elections in Jerusalem, they may actually have their demands met and possibly elect a mayor of Jerusalem. Work within the system.
Avi points out that the most prominently recognized leader of the Palestinian people in 1948 was Muhammed Amin al-Husseini , the Grand Mufti of Jersualem, and one of Hitler's allies in the Middle East.
http://www.palestinefacts.org/pf_mandate_grand_mufti.php
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/biography/mufti.html
http://www.tellthechildrenthetruth.com/gallery/
http://www.tellthechildrenthetruth.com/ourmessage.html
Avi says indeed today Israel is the Goliath and Palestine the David.
Avi says Palestinian children are given five shekel to carry, unknowingly, explosive-rigged packages through checkpoints.
Avi told me about a pregnant Irish woman going through a security check on ELAL, who stated she was en route to meet her Palestinian fiance and father of her child, in Israel, specifically the West Bank. ELAL employees became suspicious and searched her bag, finding her suitcase included an explosive set up to explode mid-air. She was unaware that her entire relationship and the child in her womb were part of a plot of to terrorize Israel.
Avi states the self-destruction mentality of this region paralyzes the peace process.
With regard to the alleged Sabra/Shatila massacre of 1982, Israel is responsible fo Arabs killing Arabs when Israel thought it had an ally in the Phalangists of Lebanon, who clashed with the Lebanese Muslims.
http://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/History/Sabra_&_Shatila.html
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/2255902.stm
http://www.indictsharon.net/
http://electronicintifada.net/cgi-bin/artman/exec/view.cgi/7/1929
http://www.sabra-shatila.be/english/
Avi resents the comparison of Israel to South Africa in terms of apartheid. He points out anti-miscegenation laws in which South African police were ordered to go house to house to find mixed race couples in the act of having sex and punishing them accordingly. He's familiar with apartheid and firmly believes that Israel cannot be accused of practicing such a system of government.
http://www.africanaencyclopedia.com/apartheid/apartheid.html
http://www.zmag.org/Sustainers/Content/2003-08/13beal.cfm
Listening to Avi throws me into another confusion frenzy. When Avi recounts the horror stories of successful and failed suicide bomb attempts, in my mind I understand very well why Israel practices the policies it does. Security policy that is so strict that Israelis and visitors are aware of this reality at every entrace to every cafe, mall, or bus station. Just Friday on my way to Tel Aviv, I went through two security checks at the Jerusalem Central Bus Station and two more upon arrival in Tel Aviv. There is a police person on every single bus I ride and one stationed at most if not all bus stops.
Somewhere in all of this security, however, structural violence, profiling and angst has resulted on both sides. This is the stuff that I need to understand more of.
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